Sunday, April 6, 2014

Lisbon: Secret Treasure Of The Best European Cities

By Mitchell Jones


Out on the fringes of Europe, nearly as far as you can go southwest and still be in Europe - without falling off into the Atlantic - Lisbon is often overlooked among those who presume to rank the best European cities. Yes, it lacks the iconic landmarks; its cuisine and wine are often considered second fiddle; and it just doesn't have that cool pizzazz factor, like a Paris, Rome or Berlin.

Thank goodness! I've been going to Lisbon since the 70s and one of the most enduringly consistent and attractive features of the place is how amazingly few tourists there are. The almost perfect climate is pretty great, too.

It is the most crime-free capital city in Europe. And that only further heightens its pleasure as one of the great walker's towns. And this is despite the winding, hilly streets, with their constantly, unexpected, stunning sea vistas around every next corner.

The food may not have the cache of Greek, Italian or French, but don't be fooled by mere reputation: Portuguese fare is delicious. And Lisbon is the place to try it! Sea food lovers in particular will find themselves in paradise. As to the wine, Portuguese reputation has suffered due to a long tradition of the exported stuff often being below the standards of the rest of Europe. The wine you'll get in even the tiniest, sawdust on the floor, wine bar joint, in some little corner off from the train station, will not disappoint. And don't even get me started on the Port. Have you ever had white port? The coffee is fantastic, too, by the way. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!

Lisbon provides all that classic European cultural stuff we've come to expect: it has cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and impressive architecture. And, if you get a hankering for the beach, which other great European city offers anything like the Costa da Caparica? Just a short trip south of town brings you to its 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches. There is easy access to them all, along a cute little railway that travels their length, dropping you off at which ever beach you'd like. (Try that in Paris.)

Lisbon is a terrific place to tour. I'd especially recommend it, though, as a real gem as a place for an extended stay. Whether you're enjoying a professional sabbatical, an extended vacation that allows you to settle into the rhythms of a place, living the ex-pat life, or are looking for the perfect spot to hole-up while writing your great novel, when you need an inspirational respite, I'd say go to Lisbon.

And you can't beat it for price. Compared to the rest of Europe, Lisbon is a real deal. Certainly it is more expensive than it was back in the 1970s, but in equivalent dollars less than you might think.

Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.

The best place to start is my personal favorite, Alfama. It is the geographic and architectural legacy of the original fishing village from which Lisbon grew. That village sensibility remains and is felt everywhere in the neighborhood, amid its charming, winding medieval streets, with the castle constantly looming behind and the grand vistas over the deep blue sea. The housing stock shows the wear of time, no doubt. There are though increasing numbers of lovely renovations becoming available, and nowhere in town will you get a better deal on them than in Alfama.

If you're a party animal type, or just an all purpose bohemian, Bairro Alto might be exactly what you'd be looking for. This happening district is packed full of characters with character and sports a wealth of excellent restaurants, trendy wine bars, popular dance clubs and all the night life you could want. It's an exciting and totally happening place. On the other hand, if you're one of those people who actually need peace and quiet to sleep, this probably isn't the best choice. How about a compromise, though? If you groove to the vibe, but need a little more night time peace, try the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods. They're just a bit down the hill: still real close, with the same vibe, but noticeably less hectic.

A bit further north and away from the action, but that much more peaceful as a result, is the Principe Real neighborhood. Its reputation long informed by the prevalence of antique shops and gay bars, Principe Real has gone through a major transformation in recent years as large numbers of hip, young professionals have moved in. This has given an area that was already very pleasant a lot more diversity and cache. The rental prices are on the higher side, but if you enjoy getting away from the urban hubbub, while still being conveniently central to things, it is a price worth paying to enjoy the neighborhood's lush gardens and charming mansions.

Also recommended for those who don't mind paying a little more in rent for a little peace and charm is the lovely Santos district. Its riverside location provides it with oodles of cache. The artsy types might also like to know that Santos has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. It is though a relatively discreet notoriety and won't intrude much upon your enjoyment of this quaint residential area with its high quality housing.

There you have it: some of the very best neighborhoods in which to live during an extended stay in Lisbon. In the end, of course, it comes down to personal taste. Whatever your preference, though, rest assured, Lisbon can provide it. If the opportunity presents itself, whatever your tastes, I can't urge you enough to not miss out on the chance to get to know one of the most affordable and beautiful gems among the best European cities.




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